Comme des Garçons, a French phrase meaning “Like Boys,” is not just a brand but a pioneering force in fashion, renowned for its avant-garde approach, deconstruction of traditional aesthetics, and bold disregard for conventional design norms. Founded by Rei Kawakubo in 1969, the brand has continually pushed boundaries, redefining the very concept of clothing and fashion. This essay explores the history of Comme des Garçons, its aesthetic philosophy, collaborations, and the enduring legacy of its founder, Rei Kawakubo.
Comme des Garçons was founded by Rei Kawakubo in Tokyo in 1969. Initially, Kawakubo studied art and literature, but she found herself drawn to the world of fashion, which she saw as a powerful medium for expression. Without formal training in fashion design, Kawakubo’s outsider perspective enabled her to approach the craft in a non-traditional manner, giving rise to a brand that would eventually become synonymous with radical innovation.
In the early years, Kawakubo’s designs were minimalistic and monochromatic, challenging the colorful, vibrant norms of mainstream fashion. She introduced stark, unembellished clothing that favored asymmetry and unconventional silhouettes, laying the groundwork for her future exploration of deconstructionist fashion.
Kawakubo first introduced Comme des Garçons to the international stage in 1981 at Paris Fashion Week. The collection, characterized by its use of black, distressed fabrics, and irregular cuts, was a stark contrast to the glamour and opulence typically seen on the runway. Kawakubo’s designs were met with a mixture of shock, intrigue, and confusion, and the press dubbed it “anti-fashion.” Her approach challenged Western notions of beauty and fashion, offering an alternative aesthetic that valued imperfection, asymmetry, and rawness.
Despite early skepticism, Comme des Garçons quickly gained a cult following. The brand appealed to those who were disillusioned with mainstream fashion and sought something deeper—something that questioned societal norms, gender constructs, and the traditional forms of beauty.
One of Comme des Garçons’ most defining characteristics is its commitment to deconstruction. Kawakubo often takes apart traditional garments and reassembles them in ways that distort and challenge conventional shapes. This method of working with clothes is not about creating beautiful, flattering pieces but about questioning the role of clothing in shaping identity.
Kawakubo’s deconstructionist approach is visible in the way she subverts common expectations. Sleeves are intentionally placed awkwardly, hemlines are uneven, and garments are often designed to be oversized or oddly shaped. This intentional dissonance invites the viewer to engage with clothing as art, rather than mere utilitarian fashion. Kawakubo’s designs are often described as “wearable art,” a label that underscores the conceptual nature of her work.
Comme des Garçons has consistently blurred the lines between menswear and womenswear. The brand’s very name, “Like Boys,” alludes to its embrace of androgyny and its rejection of strict gender binaries. Throughout the decades, Kawakubo has designed collections that challenge traditional notions of masculinity and femininity, creating pieces that are neither inherently male nor female. This approach was groundbreaking, especially during the 1980s and 1990s when fashion was highly gendered.
Kawakubo’s exploration of gender fluidity speaks to a broader commentary on identity. She rejects the idea that clothing should dictate who we are or what we represent. Instead, her designs allow for a freer, more personal expression of self that transcends societal norms and expectations.
Comme des Garçons embraces the imperfect and the unfinished, a philosophy deeply rooted in the Japanese concept of “wabi-sabi.” This aesthetic celebrates the beauty of imperfection, transience, and incompleteness, a contrast to the Western ideal of symmetry and flawlessness. Kawakubo’s garments often appear unfinished, with visible seams, raw edges, and asymmetric constructions that disrupt conventional ideas of polished fashion.
This commitment to imperfection is not just an aesthetic choice but a philosophical stance. Kawakubo’s designs remind us that beauty can be found in what is different, unconventional, and unexpected. By breaking away from the idea of perfection, Comme des Garçons pushes the fashion world to embrace a wider range of expressions and forms.
In addition to its avant-garde collections, Comme des Garçons also has several diffusion lines, one of the most popular being Comme des Garçons PLAY. Launched in 2002, PLAY is more accessible and casual compared to the main collections. The line is easily recognized by its iconic heart logo, designed by Polish artist Filip Pagowski, with the heart often sporting a pair of cartoonish eyes. PLAY focuses on simple, wearable pieces like T-shirts, sweaters, and sneakers, and it has become a favorite among streetwear enthusiasts.
Comme des Garçons is also known for its extensive collaborations with other fashion houses, artists, and brands. Kawakubo has worked with high-end brands like Louis Vuitton and Nike, as well as other avant-garde designers like Junya Watanabe, who was mentored by Kawakubo herself. These collaborations have brought the Comme des Garçons aesthetic to a wider audience, while maintaining the brand’s artistic integrity.
One of the most notable collaborations was with Swedish retailer H&M in 2008, which helped bridge the gap between avant-garde fashion and mainstream consumers. Kawakubo created a capsule collection that brought her distinctive designs to a more affordable market, while still preserving the brand’s unique spirit.
Rei Kawakubo’s influence on the fashion industry is profound and far-reaching. In 2017, she became the second living designer ever to be honored with a solo exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute in New York. Titled “Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons: Art of the In-Between,” the exhibit highlighted the designer’s boundary-pushing work and celebrated her as a true artist.
Kawakubo’s work has not only influenced fellow designers but has also reshaped the way fashion is perceived in the broader cultural context. She challenges the notion that clothing is merely functional or ornamental, suggesting instead that it can be a powerful medium for artistic and social expression. Her refusal to conform to traditional fashion norms has inspired generations of designers to embrace the unconventional and the experimental.
Comme des Garçons, under the visionary leadership of Rei Kawakubo, remains one of the most influential and revolutionary forces in contemporary fashion. Its bold defiance of convention, deconstruction of traditional aesthetics, and embrace of imperfection have not only expanded the definition of fashion but also challenged societal norms around beauty, identity, and gender. As both an art form and a commercial success, Comme des Garçons continues to inspire, provoke, and redefine what fashion can be. Through her unwavering dedication to innovation and artistic expression, Rei Kawakubo has left an indelible mark on the fashion world, ensuring that Comme des Garçons will remain a touchstone of avant-garde design for years to come.
